This
post represents another installment in the series detailing the first of our
three cross country National Parks camping trips with travel trailer in tow.
Alan and I had talked for years about re-creating our honeymoon
trip during which we tent-camped our way across the country to visit a number
of grand and glorious National Parks and Monuments in the west. We wanted to share that same adventure with
the kids and, in the summer of 2007, we did just that. Instead of a two man mountain tent, we slept
in our travel trailer, but aside from that concession to our formerly youthful
bodies, the adventure was much the same.
We hit all the same National Parks – Mount Rushmore, Devil’s Tower,
Glacier, Yellowstone, Grand Teton and Rocky Mountain - picnicked at mountain
lakes, hiked some of the same trails we had taken 28 years ago and saw the awe
on the faces of our children as we introduced them to America.
In my previous post in this series, I had mentioned a scavenger hunt on
which we had dragged the kids along. I
wouldn’t be able to share this story with you if I didn’t take you back in time
to a cold September night in West Yellowstone 28 years prior to this trip . . .
It was coming up on late September in 1979 when we settled in at the KOA
in West Yellowstone Montana - two crazy kids from the east coast, newlywed and
on the adventure of our young lives.
A
two person mountain tent was all that was between us and the elements, but we
had been fortunate weather-wise with t-shirt weather during the fall days and
cool, but not cold, temperatures at night.
All that changed on our last night in West Yellowstone.
When I woke up, it was around 5:00 a.m., dark, and I was
alone. Alone, but not worried. Alan had most likely made a restroom run and
would return soon. But, despite our
heavy-weight sleeping bags, I was cold and becoming colder by the minute. Where the heck was Alan? Was he okay?
Maybe he was sick. But it sure
was cold. Too cold to stay there much
longer so I pulled on my jacket and hiking boots and stepped outside the
tent. Well, I found out why I was cold. Ice was caked all over the tent. I didn’t know how low the temperature dropped
during the night and I was pretty sure I didn’t want to find out. No matter what Alan’s situation was, there
was no way I was going to crawl back into that tent and try to sleep. In almost no time at all, I had the sleeping
bags rolled up and our gear packed. I knocked
the ice off the tent and packed that up, too. Alan still wasn’t back and, by this time, I was getting more
annoyed than worried. I figured he was warming up in the men’s room while I was
doing all the work out in the frigid morning air. Time to find him and drag him out of there
and back into the real world. When I
approached the restrooms, I could hear men’s voices. Really?
At 5:00 a.m.? It was probably
some other poor, freezing soul and the two guys had gotten into a
conversation. When I called to Alan, he
came out almost immediately. As it
turned out, he had gotten up to use
the restroom and had run into a guy from a town just 12 miles away from where
we lived. “Fate” and “coincidence” are
two pretty powerful words in my dictionary and that’s where I’ll leave it. At 5:00 a.m. on a cold September morning in
the tiny town of West Yellowstone, Montana - over 2,000 miles from home - Alan
ran into someone who lived 20 minutes from our house. Sometimes, life is just a little difficult to
comprehend.
Well, I had Alan back and he suggested making some coffee and
getting breakfast going. Hmmm. Couldn’t do that as everything (and I do mean
everything) was already packed and I was ready to go. We needed to find someplace serving breakfast
and a lot of hot coffee.
I’m not sure what time we reached town but, let’s just say that
before sunrise on a fall morning, there is not much happening in West
Yellowstone. We drove up and down every
street in the tiny town, searching for an open restaurant. Finally, we spotted a rustic café that was
just about ready to open its doors for the day.
The interior lights were a beacon to us, promising comfort (at last!)
and a hot breakfast. We waited in the
car with the engine running trying to warm up.
Then, finally, it was time.
The café was western-themed; the servers were all dressed in blue
jeans and work shirts, with cowboy boots and hats. The coffee was hot, perfect and kept on
coming. The blueberry muffins were to
die for and the breakfast – whether in actuality or simply because we were in
such dire straits, I’m not sure – is fondly remembered as one of the best meals
I’ve ever had. Did I mention how
delicious the blueberry muffins were?
With the warmth seeping back into our bones and a road trip ahead of us,
we left the cowboys to their customers and headed out into the streets of West
Yellowstone. Alan and I always figured
that this little eatery saved our bacon while we ate theirs.
That was the backstory. Fast
forward 28 years. What if there was a
chance we could find that restaurant and enjoy a meal there for old time’s
sake? How hard could it be to find one
particular restaurant in such a small town?
Alan and I decided that we had to look.
Our son and daughter (ages 13 and 8, respectively, at the time) thought
we were crazy as we dragged them up one street and down the other. Neither Alan nor I remembered the name of the
restaurant and we had no idea what street it was on, so we asked various
shopkeepers and sales clerks for help along the way. Finally, someone suggested we try the
Timberline, as it had been open for many years.
Guess what?! We found it!!! The Timberline Café at 135 Yellowstone Avenue
had undergone a renaissance of sorts.
Yes, this was definitely it! |
Gone was the western-themed decor and I can only assume that the “cowboys”
were sent back to the ranch. In its
place was a lovely Scandinavian-styled interior with smiling young women who
welcomed us to an early lunch. Were we
sure it was the same place? Absolutely,
there wasn’t a doubt in our minds. As it
turned out, the Timberline Café was built next to the historic Madison Hotel in
the early 1900’s and it has been in operation since then. Not only did we have another wonderful meal
there, but the staff graciously allowed us to take as many photos as we wanted
after hearing the story of our scavenger hunt.
There may have been 28 years between visits, but the Timberline treated these
hungry travelers as well in 2007 as it did back in 1979. Truth be told, I don’t think I want to wait
another 28 years to go back.
Postscript: While on our
unusual scavenger hunt, we were enjoying the many painted bison that decorated
the streets of West Yellowstone.
"Welcome to West Yellowstone" |
I found
out later that the “Buffalo Roam” Art Project was created back in 2006 by the
West Yellowstone Economic Development Committee (WYED). Less than two months before our family
visited in 2007, 26 fiberglass bison that had been painted in various themes by
different artists were placed around the town. A year later, 10 painted calves
were added to the landscape. In August
of 2009, every one of the 36 works of art were auctioned off, earning over
$161,000 for WYED and its community projects.
Although most of the bison were taken elsewhere after the auction, I understand that there
are still at least a dozen in West Yellowstone that can be viewed by
visitors. That was a bonus story; there’s
no need to thank me.
If you plan
to visit Yellowstone National Park and find yourself near West Yellowstone and
in need of sustenance, I believe you’ll find a warm welcome at the Timberline Café
(link HERE). Let me know how the
blueberry muffins are.
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