RV ALASKA - Poking Around the Peninsula - Busy Days, Quiet Nights

A longer post than usual, covering six full days . . . We arrived at the Kenai Princess RV Park in Cooper Landing knowing we had someplace to call home for seven nights.  Beyond that, we needed to fill about a week and a half before our reservations at one of the municipal campgrounds in Seward kicked in.  Figuring that Cooper Landing was a good base camp for exploring the central part of the Kenai Peninsula and an adequate, if not ideal, base for exploring the western end of the Peninsula, we asked about extending our stay at the Kenai Princess.

Kim, the manager of the RV Park, worked very hard to fit us in.  Despite her efforts, there was a two day gap she couldn’t cover, immediately following our current reservation.  She promised us that, if we could leave for just two days, we could come back and stay as long as we’d like.  Well, if we had to leave for two days, we might as well try to find another campground that would put us in a better position for exploring the western end of the Peninsula.  With a heartfelt thank you to Kim for all of her efforts on our behalf, we spent the next couple of days poking around the Peninsula, checking out both private RV parks and State Recreation Areas.  We really needed to find a place to call home!

We knew we wanted to spend time in Homer, the most southwestern point to which you can drive in Alaska.  So, on our first full day on the Peninsula, we poked around State Recreation Areas and private RV parks between Cooper Landing and Homer, combining sightseeing and “house hunting.”  We came up with enough possibilities to make Plans A, B and C.  Once those plans were in place, we switched into “fun” mode, and set about exploring the Peninsula in earnest.

One day during our Cooper Landing stay, we drove to the historic mining town of Hope.  Hope (population: 133) wasn’t much bigger than Chicken, but it sits in a lovely location on Turnagain Arm with some incredibly amazing views.  On another day, we visited the largest city on the Kenai Peninsula – Kenai, with a population of 7,653.  Keep in mind that the total population of Alaska is just over 733,000, and 284,000 of those people live in Anchorage.  Yet Kenai ranks as Alaska’s 14^th most populated city.  Interesting numbers for a state with the land mass of Alaska.  I expected Kenai to be charming, but it didn’t feel that way to me.  Alan and I made a very brief stop there and didn’t feel the need to return.

The week we spent at the Kenai Princess RV Park in Cooper Landing was really pretty low key.  We are, after all, outdoor enthusiasts, and can spend hours just poking around parks, lakes and out-of-the-way-places in the natural world.  We’re not hitting the hottest restaurants (hard to find up here, anyway) or saloons (those, you can find).  Some museums appeal to us; most don’t.  Truthfully, I can see how we would appear to be rather boring travelers to those with a discerning eye.  But Alan’s interests and preferences are extremely compatible with mine.  As I’ve said plenty of times before, it doesn’t take much to make us happy.  Yes, we appreciate a good meal, a great show or a museum with excellent exhibits.  But we also appreciate the pleasure of walking on the beach, biking a trail, watching a string of fishing boats returning to the harbor at the end of the day and seeing an eagle fly directly overhead.  Alaska was a big undertaking for us, but it’s the small highlights of the day that are proving to be the heart and soul of the trip.  Life’s simple pleasures are the best, and we’re finding plenty of them to enjoy.

Date(s) – July 12^th – July 17^th

Total Miles Traveled to Date – 10,779

Wildlife Sightings to Date – During the six full days we spent in Cooper Landing, we spotted 3 moose, 1 coyote, 1 sea otter, 31 eagles, 4 swans (including 2 fuzzy cygnets), and mama Merganser with 14 tiny ducklings.  (God bless her.)

So, our current wildlife count is: 53 eagles (including 2 fledglings); 8 swans (including 2 fuzzy cygnets), 3 Steller sea lions, 12 harbor seals, 2 sea otters, 3 cow moose; 1 bull moose; 1 grizzly sow with 2 cubs; 1 back end of a grizzly bear, 6 black bears; 1 coyote; 1 snowshoe hare; 3 rabbits (including one very fast bunny that just managed to cross the road safely); several small herds of bison with at least 2 dozen young calves; 9 deer (2 of them bucks with their racks covered in velvet); 9 mountain goats (including 3 tiny and adorable kids); 23 bighorn sheep; 62 elk (including 7 calves that hadn’t yet lost their spots and a number of bull elk with full racks covered in velvet); several small herds of pronghorn antelope (including 2 mamas with 3 newborn fawns between them); 3 great blue herons; dozens of American white pelicans; at least a half dozen families of adult geese with goslings; and several dozen ducks (with lots of little ducklings).

You know, it’s funny.  My overall opinion is that we’re not really seeing much wildlife.  But when I update the counts, I’m reminded of the actual numbers.  Apparently, we’re doing pretty well after all.

Highlight(s) – I SAW BULLWINKLE!  Our prior moose sightings had all been of cow moose, so it was a real treat to spot a young bull moose in the grass on the side of the Sterling Highway. 

Alan and I were thrilled to see so many eagles on the Kenai Peninsula.  At Anchor Point, there were nine right on the beach; at Deep Creek, one very regal eagle was surveying his kingdom from his perch just off the road.

We found baby swans at Tern Lake and Merganser ducklings at Summit Lake - a different Summit Lake than the one we camped at in Canada, of course.   I’m always thrilled to see baby critters of any kind, and these were no exception.  Just. Too. Cute.

Boat launching at some of the State Recreation Areas was rather fascinating.  Boat launches are plentiful throughout Alaska, and most of them are just like the launches we’re familiar with at home.  You tow your boat to the lake or river, back your boat trailer down a ramp and into the water and release your boat into the water – ideally, with someone holding the lines so it doesn’t float away.   At a couple of the State Recreation Areas here, the state permits a privately owned tractor service to launch boats into the surf by backing your boat trailer into the water with a tractor.  A big tractor.  When you’re ready to take your boat out, the tractor retrieves your boat trailer, backs into the surf again, and waits for you to drive your boat onto your trailer.  Then, out you go.  Fascinating!  And costly!  Boat launch fees in our neck of the woods run about $10.00 or $15.00 for use of a boat ramp.  Maybe $20.00 at most.  A tractor launch up here will set you back $80.00.  Keep in mind that most of the boats here are fishing boats, not pleasure boats.  If I had to guess, I’d say that the boats around here bring in more than enough fish to cover the cost of the tractor launch.

Another unusual concept for us was the use of drift boats – and they were pretty cool to watch.  In certain rivers or certain sections of a river, motorized boats are not allowed.  Instead, drift boats are used.  Think of a large rowboat with sturdy oars.  Drift boats go in the water at one launch site and are taken out downriver.  (As you can imagine, shuttle services abound.)  We saw many warnings about swift-moving water and recommendations that you not fish in certain places if you’re inexperienced.  Guides are recommended and I can see why.  We spent some time (in the rain, of course) watching fishermen launch their drift boats on the Russian River.  As soon as those boats were pushed off from shore, they would be caught up in the fast-moving current and be out of sight in practically no time at all.  It must take no small amount of skill and strength to maneuver those drift boats when the rivers are running full and fast like they were during our visit.

We watched the drift boats at the site of the Russian River Ferry, and found that to be fascinating, too.  This ferry transports fishermen and women from the parking area on the highway side of the river to the other side where, apparently, the fishing is better.  Yup, a little ferry boat, back and forth across the river.  I’m wondering what happens if you’re on the other side and one of the many grizzly bears that also like to fish in the Russian River comes along.  It’s incredibly intriguing to see so many new-to-us activities.  I’d like them even better if we weren’t experiencing them in the rain!  Yes, those are probably water droplets on the photos.

The Kenai and Russian Rivers are famous for their salmon runs.  If you’ve heard the term “combat fishing,” you’ve probably seen photos of salmon fishermen and women wearing waders and standing shoulder to shoulder in a river flossing for salmon.  Yes, I did say “flossing” and not "fishing."  As I understand the salmon spawning process, salmon do not eat when they’re at this point in their lifecycle – on their way to spawn in the stream in which they were born.  So, they’re not really interested in whatever bait you’re throwing their way.  “Flossing” is basically just trying to snag the salmon with some type of hook allowed by the very strict fishing regulations here in Alaska.  Statistically speaking, with the thousands of salmon swimming in these rivers on their way to spawn, your chances of success are pretty darn good.  (Full disclosure: I do not fish.  Alan does not fish.  I do not really know what I’m talking about.  I am trusting that those of you who do will correct any misconceptions I’ve absorbed.  I will not be offended and, in fact, would appreciate the backup.)  I understand that there are certain “rules” to be followed when the salmon are running and everyone is battling for their own four foot stretch of river in which to floss.  Don’t snag your line on the lines of your fellow fishing folk.  (How can you not?!)  Holler out, “Fish on!” when you catch one, so that your neighbors can 1) get out of your way and 2) help you net your fish.  I’m sure there are other “rules” but, since I don’t speak fishing, I’m probably not the best person from whom to learn them.  Suffice it to say that, whenever we passed certain sections of the Kenai and Russian Rivers, there were plenty of salmon enthusiasts fishing flossing from drift boats or in the rivers.

When we were exploring along the coast of the Peninsula, we stopped in the small town of Ninilchik (population: 964) to see the old Russian Orthodox Church, built in 1901.  Ninilchik was settled in the early 1800’s by Russian colonists, and the old part of town became sort of a retirement community for many of the older residents who didn’t want to make the journey back to their homeland.  This beautiful little church with its yard full of white crosses and flourishing weeds was a poignant reminder of Alaska’s Russian history.

Lowlight(s) – The Skilak Lake Loop.  “Back road.  Lots of wildlife.”  So we heard.  What we found was a 19 mile gravel loop that had been “graded” with something big that had cleats.  Alan’s two cents?  “It’s a true test of your truck’s suspension.”  Oh, yeah, no wildlife either.

Rain.  All day, every day, 24/7.  Not really, but it's sure starting to feel that way.

Campground(s) – At the Kenai Princess RV Park for all seven nights of our stay in Cooper Landing.  Enjoying breakfast at the Lodge one day was a heartwarming reminder of the night we had spent there with our kids twenty years ago.

Observations(s) – Fishing boats are everywhere up here!  In the harbors, at boat ramps, at gas stations, at restaurants, on the back roads and highways, in front yards, in backyards, in storage lots, in parking lots – everywhere!  If I had a dollar for every fishing boat we’ve seen in Alaska, I’d have enough money for another trip to Alaska.  And these things are not cheap!  Aluminum fishing boats running 20’ to 30’ can easily go for a couple of hundred thousand – dollars, not pennies.  My numbers-oriented brain would love to know how much money in boating inventory is sitting in the state of Alaska.  It has to be mind-boggling.

Laugh(s) of the Day – When I said to our 25-year-old daughter, Kyra, “I saw Bullwinkle!” she prompted responded, “Who’s that?”  Wow!  Now I feel incredibly old.

Pic(s) of the Day

Lots of highlights, so lots of photos today!

Bullwinkle!

Ms. Bullwinkle

Regal eagle

The sweet little swan family

Yes, 14 ducklings!  Go ahead and count 'em!

Summit Lake - home of the Merganser family

Tractor launch at Deep Creek State Recreation Area

Drift boat on the Russian River - fishermen & women near the opposite shore

Russian Orthodox Church in Ninilchik

Turnagain Arm, as seen from Hope

Up Next – When we left Cooper Landing on the morning of July 18^th, we headed west on the Kenai Peninsula to Deep Creek State Recreation Area in Ninilchik which would be our base camp for the days we spent in Homer.  Our time had come for that gravel lot we were dreading – and what a gravel lot it was!